Problem with Pledge/Future??

[John Gietzen]

Guys,

I recently expereinced a problem with Pledge/Future and was wondering if any of you had experienced the same thing. I have used this on several models with no problem until now.

After waiting a couple of days for the acrylic colors to dry I airbrushed on a few light coats of stright Future. I let the coat dry for two days and then went back a repeated the Future coat. After two days of drying the decals were applied.  THEN THE TROUBLE STARTED.
I use artists oil paints diluted with clear, odorless mineral spirits. This is the same stuff I have used for 5+years on several models.  However, the oil wash would not "flow" along panel lines, seams, etc... The little bubble of oil wash just stayed put as if it beaded-up!!! Even if I held the part vertically to get gravity to help, the little bead stayed put!! I tried mixing new oil washes with differing amounts of mineral spirits, but the same thing happened everytime.  I even tried making an oil wash using clear Turpenoid as the carrier, but no luck. I even tried new mineral spirits thinking my supply had deteriorated. Again, no luck.

Did I airbrush on too much Pledge/Future??
Wondering,
John Gietzen

[White_R34]

First I realy don't think you airbrushed on to much Future, Have you ever tryed using 90% to 100% rubbing alcohol mixed with pastel chalks to make a new form of wash., or have you ever tryed a rustall kit. There's a small jar of black and white wash. That's what I used on my Merkava.
http://spruebender.net/forum2/index.php?topic=493.135

Oh here's one more type of wash you can try. First you would have needed to paint the hole model with what enamel paint as it's base color. Then use dark of black acrylic colors and acrylic thinner to make a wash. This two is something I use on mini of my projects.

With black and some lighter colors of the pastel chalks mixed in for the right shade of dark or grit., the rubbing alcohol will help it dry faster. You must use a 0/10 thin paintbrush if you can't get it to run down and through the seams as you may want. An you may want to try using this same paintbrush with you wash and mineral spirits mix.

[John Gietzen]

Vincent,

I appreciate the comments and suggestions. I used to have the rustall weathering products, but ran out a few years back.... then started making my own washes like you do.
Cannot stand enamels, so the idea of enamel base coat followed by acrylic-sludge washes would not fit my preference.

Don't think it is the type of oil wash I have been using, cause I have been using the artists oils diluted with clear mineral spirits for several years now on several different models. The reason I think I applied to much Future is beacuse the model surface was much much more glossy as compared to other models. Even the Micro-Sol and Micro-Set soultions for decals "beaded-up" on the surface.

I use either a 20/0 or 10/0 red sable brush for the pin-washes, so I don't think it was the brush since that was the same one used for washing of previous models.

Thanks,
John G


 

[White_R34]

  So you say: "Cannot stand enamels"! I know how you feel. I now see that you did paint on a bit to much "Future". The only othere thing you may want to try, is to lightly sand you full model with the finest sand pad you have, along with sand paper rapped around a tooth pick or small sanding stick. For those realy tight spots.

[John Gietzen]

Thanks for the input Vincent.

In spite of the pin-wash problem, the vehicle was completed. I just had to take alot more time and patience to "spread" the pin-washes where I wanted it, rather than depend upon the capillary action. The one I had problem with is the Karl-Morser post on my workbench.

John G

[White_R34]

I'm glad every thing worked out and you work is truly outstanding.